With
a limited amount of time for cooking this week, I created a menu for a full traditional
Italian meal celebrating fresh, seasonal ingredients. Although I already had a few dishes planned, I
turned to my copies of Mario Batali’s Molto
Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home and Babbo Cookbook for the inspiration I needed to realize the complete menu. After thoughtful consideration, I crafted a
menu for an Italian Autumn Feast and invited over a few friends for Sunday Supper.
negroni |
The apertivo is a pre-dinner drink served
to introduce a meal. It may be as simple
as a glass of prosecco, but Italians often indulge in a cocktail made with
Campari. The Negroni is likely the most
popular Campari cocktail. It is made
with gin, vermouth, and Campari and generally garnished with an orange peel. This is not a cocktail for the faint of heart
as it boasts a strong, piney flavor, and it is best defined as a a “sipping”
drink. For our dinner, half of the
guests indulged in a Negroni while the others enjoyed a glass of prosecco.
frying the suppli di riso |
The antipasto course offers guests an array
of snacks that may range from a simple platter of cheese and meats to more
elaborate salads and sandwiches. A few
weeks before our Italian dinner, my friend Stephanie told me about the suppli
di riso (fried stuffed risotto balls) that she had in Italy while visiting with
her friend Marco’s family. She
graciously asked Marco for his mother’s recipe so I could make it for our
dinner, and a few days later I received an email that began with Marco’s family
recipe in Italian and ended with his English translation.
suppli di riso |
Marco’s mother makes this dish with risotto flavored by homemade chicken stock and stuffs it with fresh mozzarella and
prosciutto. What an incredible
dish! It was also surprisingly simple to
incorporate into the meal. I made the
risotto on the Saturday afternoon. Then,
I formed the risotto balls and stuffed them with the prosciutto and fresh
mozzarella on Sunday afternoon, so the only task during the meal was to coat
them in egg and bread crumbs before frying them.
sauteed green and black olives in tomato sauce |
Because I knew
the suppli di riso would require my full attention, I opted to serve two dishes
that could easily be prepared before my guests arrived, such as sautéed black
and green olives in tomato sauce and fresh herbed ricotta cheese served with
homemade boules. The recipe for the
olives came from Batali’s Molto Italiano. I made the tomato sauce on Saturday (enough
for this dish and the braised veal I served in the secondo course), and on
Sunday afternoon, I sautéed the olives with garlic, added the tomato sauce, and
simmered them for about thirty minutes.
I served them at room temperature.
fresh herbed ricotta |
Making fresh ricotta cheese was a task I had tackled previously. It’s simple to make and most recipes for it
are similar. My version is a hybrid of
Michael Schwartz and Ina Garten’s recipes.
I just add some freshly chopped
herbs, parsley in this case, for flavor and color. For the boules, I followed Mark Bittman’s
recipe in The Best Recipes in the World,
and even though I’ve made many homemade breads, I was a little nervous about
getting the consistency right when making such a classic bread; however, they
turned out beautifully. I thought two
loaves would be enough bread, but everyone loved these boules so much that we ran
out of bread before the antipasto course was complete. They had an incredible crunchy crust with a perfectly
tender center ideal for sopping up the tomato sauce with the olives.
ravioli |
The primo course serves as the first course
of the actual meal and commonly includes pasta, gnocchi, risotto, polenta, or
soup. This is another course that I
planned weeks before our dinner. I was
lamenting over my failed experiences of making homemade pasta with my friend
Christine, and she immediately offered to bring her pasta maker to my house and
give me a personal pasta lesson.
Fortunately, we had that conversation during my week of French cuisine
and I still had some duck confit left in my refrigerator. She suggested that I freeze it so that we
could make duck ravioli. Brilliant! So, on Sunday afternoon, Christine arrived
with pasta maker in tow, and she proceeded to make beautiful pasta for us. (It’s so nice to have chefs for
friends!) Watching her work was so much
fun…partly because she makes gorgeous food but also because it was nice to take
a break from cooking for a minute. She
made a delicious brown butter and sage sauce for the ravioli and then topped
each dish with orange zest. It was
amazing!
duck ravioli in brown butter sauce with sage |
The secondo course functions as the main
course. It is generally the heartiest course and includes meat. I made braised veal rolls in tomato sauce from Batali’s Molto Italiano. I thought
that the
stuffing mix of bread crumbs, parmesan cheese, prosciutto, currants, pine nuts,
and parsley evoked a sense of Autumn flavors that would enhance our seasonal
feast. I also liked the idea that I
could make the dish just before my guests arrived and let it simmer on the
stovetop as they enjoyed the first courses of the evening. To make this dish, I spread the stuffing mixture
on thin slices of veal that I rolled and secured with butcher’s string. In a Dutch oven, I sautéed pancetta and
onions in olive oil, and then I browned the rolls in the same oil and removed
them. I added the tomato sauce I made on
Saturday afternoon and red wine to the Dutch oven, and then I added the onions,
pancetta, and veal rolls back to the pan to simmer for over an hour. The resulting dish was a tender piece of veal
complemented well with the sweetness of the pine nuts, currants and tomato
sauce, saltiness of the pancetta and prosciutto, and earthiness of the parsley
and red wine.
For the contorno, or accompanying vegetable dishes served with the main course, I selected two dishes from Batali’s Molto Italiano: broccoli rabe braised in the style of Puglia and onions with balsamic glaze. The broccoli rabe is braised with garlic and red pepper flakes. Then, chopped black olives are added just before serving. The onions with balsamic glaze turned out to be one of the group’s favorite dishes of the evening. This dish is the ultimate example of Italian cuisine at its best…only a few quality ingredients and time. I was so proud of the beautiful, thick balsamic glaze on those sweet onions. Both dishes complemented the veal rolls nicely.
onions with balsamic glaze braised veal rolls in tomato sauce broccoli rabe in the style of Puglia |
For the contorno, or accompanying vegetable dishes served with the main course, I selected two dishes from Batali’s Molto Italiano: broccoli rabe braised in the style of Puglia and onions with balsamic glaze. The broccoli rabe is braised with garlic and red pepper flakes. Then, chopped black olives are added just before serving. The onions with balsamic glaze turned out to be one of the group’s favorite dishes of the evening. This dish is the ultimate example of Italian cuisine at its best…only a few quality ingredients and time. I was so proud of the beautiful, thick balsamic glaze on those sweet onions. Both dishes complemented the veal rolls nicely.
Traditionally,
the formaggio e frutta course
(cheese and fruit) is served between the main course and the dessert case. Although I had nice Italian cheeses
(parmigiano-reggiano, pecorino, fontal, gorgonzola) ready to serve with some
green grapes, I knew that we were nearing our maximum capacity, and I didn’t
want to spoil our dolce course, so
we agreed to forego this course and move ahead.
pumpkin cake with toasted pine nuts olive oil gelato |
The dolce course is the dessert course and
usually includes baked goods such as cake or cookies. Again, I turned to a Batali cookbook for this
course and opted to make pumpkin cake with toasted pine nuts and olive oil
gelato from his Babbo Cookbook. It was every bit as good as it sounds,
too. I loved the pumpkin cake, because
it only included one cup of brown sugar which served to elevate the sweetness
of the pumpkin puree. Even better, the
cake is studded with toasted pine nuts, golden raisins soaked in grappa, and
finely chopped fresh rosemary. Pairing
it with the unctuous olive oil gelato provided the perfect dessert…not too
sweet but full of flavor and definitely reminiscent of a beautiful autumn
evening.
I offered
espresso for the caffe course, and I
intended to ask everyone if they would like some grappa for the digestivo course, but after dessert, I
looked over and saw all of my friends lounging across the couches. We had reached capacity, and even the idea of
the digestive was too much. This is not
a group of lightweights either. None of
us is a small portions, calorie-counting, leave food on the plate kind of
person, but this feast knocked us out!
Well, except for Patrick. He even
had two servings of the olive oil gelato, and I’m sure he could’ve handled the
cheese course, too. There’s a reason
that the Italians reserve these large, traditional meals for special occasions.
I can’t imagine a
better way to celebrate the cuisine of Italy than an evening spent with friends
around a table of exquisite dishes. I
was so caught up in keeping our dinner on schedule that I completely forgot to
document the incredible Italian beer that Patrick shared with the group and the
numerous bottles of delicious Italian wines we enjoyed, but they have not been
forgotten. All in all, we had a lovely
evening, and the feast was incredible.
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